Oaktree Home and Garden

First Aid for Dogs on Holiday

Neil — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 18:12:36 +0000

Following my recent article on taking your dog on holiday, it occurred to me that, although I mentioned taking a first aid kit for dogs, I did not mention what should be included in the kit and perhaps more importantly how to administer first aid to a dog.

Many of us do not know how to administer basic first aid to humans let alone an animal whose treatment, in certain cases, will be quite different to that of a human. Medication being the obvious example.
Dogs can die or react badly to certain human medicines, so the general rule is DO NOT administer human medicine to your pet dog. One ibuprofen tablet can kill a terrier sized dog.

The main course of action in the event of illness or injury is to get your dog to the vet as soon as possible.

THE FIRST AID KIT should include the following items:

Bandages. A roll of self-adhesive or crepe bandage (5cm width)

Conforming / open-weave bandages 2.5cm, 5cm and 7.5cm

Adhesive Plaster

Cotton Wool and Lint

Sterile Absorbent Gauze

non-adhesive absorbent dressings (5cm x 5cm) to cover open wounds

Scissors, blunt ended and half curved.

Tweezers

Table salt for making saline solution

Towel and a Sock

Bicarbonate of Soda (baking powder)

Vinegar

A basic First Aid Book

The above list is a guide suggested by veterinary surgeons and the Blue Cross

INJURIES TO LOOK OUT FOR WHILST ON HOLIDAY

Depending on your holiday destination the type of injury may vary. A walking holiday for instance is more likely to involve sprains, lameness and extremely rarely, a snake bite.

A beach holiday may also see sprains and broken bones, but also stings from wasps and jelly fish. Injuries involving the water and problems caused by contaminated coats and paws from substances like Tar washed up and deposited onto the beach by the tides.
Dog fights are also more common due to the number of dogs on the beach, all trying to claim the beach as their territory.

TREATMENT Let’s not go in for heroics! if you can get your dog to a vet make that the priority, the following information is given to assist your pet prior to seeking qualified assistance.

Bites The only creature likely to bite your dog is another dog or a snake.
In Britain the only poisonous snake is the adder. During the summer months adders can be seen basking on heathland or amongst warm south facing hedgerows. The tell tale signs of an adder bite are the fang marks, swelling occurs rapidly around the area thus the marks will be quite visible.
If possible carry your pet to your car, or if they are too heavy, walk them very slowly. The idea is to keep the poison from spreading by keeping the heart rate and blood flow slowed down. It is human nature to panic and try and rush the animal to get help, this will have an adverse effect. The same also applies to humans receiving a snake bite.
Try and ring the vet whilst getting your dog back to your transport to alert them of your imminent arrival.
A grass snake, although not poisonous, can give a nasty bite, bathe the wound with a saline solution, keep the wound clean and dry and prevent your dog from licking the wound excessively, a dog’s natural reaction to pain or cuts is to lick the area.
The above applies to bites from other dogs.

If the bite causes bleeding apply a dressing or bandage, for very deep cuts where there is excessive bleeding or spurting of blood, apply pressure to the area and bandage heavily. Where bandages are not available improvise with clothing, blankets, towels etc. Only use a tourniquet as a last resort. For areas where a bandage cannot be applied, place a pad on the wound and hold in place.

If you do have a first aid kit handy, place a non adhesive dressing on the wound, and cover with swabs or cotton bandage. Then place a layer of cotton wool over the bandage. Cover this with more cotton bandage. Stick this to the hair at the top with surgical tape, and cover the whole with adhesive bandage or tape. Do not stick elastoplast to the hair.
When bandaging limbs, the foot should be included or it may swell up.
Never leave a bandage on for more than 24 hours.
In all the instances above a trip to the vet is necessary as your dog will probably require antibiotics for the minor cuts and possible surgery for the major injuries.

Stings

The most common stings that might affect your dog whilst on holiday are bees and wasps.

A beach or public place where ice cream and fast food vendors are in abundance will attract wasps in vast numbers, August being an especially popular month for the striped insect.
We all loathe them, they make our lives a misery. It is a common sight to see arms and hands thrashing about trying to deter the pests. Dogs have a habit of biting at them, this of course greatly increases the dog’s chance of being stung.
Should your dog be stung by a wasp firstly try and pull out the sting, not an easy task! Bathe the area with a saline solution comprising 1 teaspoon of salt mixed in a pint of boiling water. Allow the water to cool before applying the solution.
Vinegar will help reduce the effects of a wasp sting.
If the sting is from a bee bicarbonate of soda should be applied in place of vinegar.
Jelly Fish can be a problem on British beaches, although most species found around our shores are not as harmful as those found elsewhere in the world. As Jelly Fish are an extremely complex subject it is not easy advising on treatment of their stings, as with wasps, vinegar would appear to be the common method, however, it has the opposite effect should the Jelly Fish be a Portugese Man O’ War (although this particular creature is not actually a Jelly Fish)
Most Jelly Fish are seen apparently dead, washed up on the tide line, they can still sting several days even weeks after their demise.
Ice will constrict the blood vessels of the stung person or animal, slowing down the rate at which the toxins spread throughout the body.

One last stinger found buried in the sand is the Weaver Fish, which has spines on its back which release a sting if trodden on. They are not a particularly harmful fish, however, the sting can be very painful for a while.
The best treatment for a Weaver sting is to immerse the paw in hot water and then apply heat to the area.

Remember that with all injuries or discomfort that your dog suffers, they will not want you or anybody else tending their wound. Take care when treating an injured pet as they will not always behave in their usual loving manner. They will want to treat themselves, usually this treatment takes the form of licking the wound which is not always in their best interest.

Minor stings may not require veterinary treatment unless the sting is in the mouth. Any stings to the mouth should be monitored and expert treatment sought as soon as possible as there is always the possibility of choking due to the mouth or tongue swelling.

Choking

If a ball or unknown object gets stuck in your dog’s throat immediate attention is required.
In such instances it will help if you have a second person to assist. Both need to be careful they are not bitten by the panicking animal.
With one hand check the airway by holding the mouth open. Using the other hand pull the tongue as far forward as possible.
Assuming there is an obstruction in the dog’s mouth, the second person should try and remove the object with pliers or tweezers. If the object is a ball do not try removing with pliers etc as this may push the ball further down the throat. Instead, place your fingers at the base of the jaw, apply pressure inwards and upwards on the jaw, throat and neck which may force the ball forwards out of the stuck position.
If this procedure does not work try laying the pet on its side. Push down suddenly and sharply on the tummy just behind the last rib.

Coat Contamination

Sometimes unpleasant chemicals and substances can be washed up on our coastline. Tar is the most common item seen on the beach.
Dogs can be sensitive to certain substances on their coat and feet. Their nature will make them lick the substance which can cause serious problems, especially if the substance is toxic.
The measures you should take involve preventing the animal from licking the area, wash the area with water containing a mild detergent or washing up liquid and then thoroughly rinse the area with clean water.
To remove tar use vegetable oil or butter, for oil use swarfega, similarly if paint is the problem use swarfega or try and clip the fur that is contaminated.
With a very heavy contamination get your pet to the vet as soon as possible.

Heat Stroke

I have already mentioned leaving dogs in hot cars, the result at very least can be heat stroke, at worse, death.
Cars are not the only places where a dog can suffer from heat stroke. A hot sunny day on the beach with little or no shade can have the same effect.

Try and take a parasol or something similar which will provide some shade from the sun and also plenty of fresh water. It is advisable to take more water than you will need as inevitably sand will get into the drinking bowl causing the dog to get more thirsty from the extra salt.

The signs to look out for are distress and heavy panting. Move your dog into the shade, preferably in a draught, stop exercising or playing, bathe the dog with tepid water if possible, cold water will contract the blood vessels and slow heat loss. Offer your pet small amounts of water.
Short nosed dogs tend to suffer more.

Poisoning

Dogs will rummage amongst things, some possibly containing a poisonous substance, they may also come into contact with plants that are poisonous.
If possible identify and keep the packaging or plant containing the poison for identification by the vet.
Immediate treatment will be to induce vomiting, a crystal of washing soda or strong salt solution can be used to induce vomiting. The next stage is straight to the vets.

Broken Bones

This is really a job for the vet. If there is bleeding with the break that can be treated first as mentioned above. Do not apply a splint as this can be painful and cause the broken bone to pierce the skin. Try and keep your pet as still as possible and transport to the vet.

Burns and Scalds

A fairly unlikely injury to occur on the beach unless you are having a barbecue. More likely to happen on the campsite where cookers and stoves are in a confined space.
To treat a burn, pour cold water over the burn for at least five minutes. Do not apply ointments or cream. A saline dressing can be applied to the burn whilst waiting for or travelling to the vets. Keep the animal warm.

Electric Shock

Again fairly unlikely on the beach but should your dog receive an electric shock, turn off the power source causing the shock and move the animal away from the source using a broom or other non-conductive (dry and non-metallic) device. Do not touch the animal as you may also receive an electric shock. Once safe to do so check whether the animal is breathing and if not apply resuscitation as indicated in that section below.

If the shock is caused by high voltage, in other words, a non domestic supply, stay at least 18m (20 yards) away from the animal and do not let anybody else approach, notify the emergency services and await their arrival.

Drowning

Never put yourself at risk.
Clear any debris from the dog’s airways, nose and mouth, hold the dog upside down by the hind legs to allow any water to drain out of its lungs, check to see if the animal is breathing, if not give artificial respiration as discussed below. A swinging motion can be used to encourage breathing. Dry your pet and wrap in a blanket to keep warm.
Hopefully your dog will recover, in which case still take to the vets as complications might occur later.

Basic Resuscitation

Place the animal on its side, check for breathing by holding a wisp of fur or something lightweight against its nostrils.
If there is no sign of breathing, open the mouth and pull the tongue forward and check the airways and remove any blockages from the mouth.
Once you have decided there is no blockage or the animal has not responded following removal of a blockage, apply resuscitation as follows

Hold the dog’s mouth closed, pull the pet’s head forward and extend the neck to straighten it, now blow into the nose approximately twenty times a minute.

If you cannot feel a heartbeat push on the chest just behind the front legs every second.

Give two breaths into the nose for every 15 compressions of the chest

Continue for several minutes until your pet revives. If breathing does not restart after approximately five minutes, sadly your pet will probably not recover.

Hopefully those of us on holiday with our dogs will not need to use any of the information given above but for anybody who does find the information useful in the event of an accident or injury the article will have served its purpose.

Skull or Fungus?

Neil — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 17:44:19 +0000

Taking your Dog on Holiday

Neil — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 13:43:00 +0000

Despite claims by certain politicians that the family is declining in importance, one only has to spend a fortnight in one of the UK’s holiday resorts to realise that the family is very much alive and well.

The family may have changed in its structure over the past thirty years, however, it still comprises of two adults whose gender is no longer important, one, two or more children or young adults as they like to be called despite still behaving like children, and in many cases the family dog or dogs.

Wherever the holiday destination is, it is likely to be an alien environment to most. Being used to towns, cities and countryside does not help when suddenly thrown into an environment that holds so many unseen and unknown dangers to both humans and animals.

There are two basic family holiday destinations in the UK. The beach holiday consisting of mainly sand and sea situated usually in Devon, Cornwall and south west Wales compared with the old fashioned traditional Victorian holiday situated mostly from the south coast and winding its way eastwards towards the North east and consisting of sand and sea again with added attractions like funfairs, piers providing entertainment and amusement arcades.

My annual holiday destination is Cornwall where a relaxing stress free holiday can be had.
Having spent fifty years holidaying in the Padstow area of Cornwall I have got to know of the dangers and threats that the innocent looking landscape holds. Despite this I am still wary each year I return. Unlike fields which I am used to, beaches can change overnight due to tides and the weather conditions.

Children and dogs are very similar, they need constantly watching, look away for a minute and they are gone, in the case of dogs it is usually to the nearest other dog or the person closest who is eating something tasty, most embarrassing is their habit of going to the loo in the middle of another family’s encampment or at very least cocking their leg up another holiday maker’s windshield, quite often in their excitement to get to wherever they are going they run straight over a sunbather who has fallen asleep and has turned beetroot red and is suffering from third degree burns.

Whilst trying to apologise to the now awaken, claw marked sunbather you wonder why you wasted all that time and money at dog training classes, as your commands to your dog on a mission fall on deaf ears that can normally hear a pin drop.

The solution, don’t forget the dog’s lead and take one of those gadgets that screw into sand or soil and have a longer lead attached to them.

The reason for what appears to be an untrained out of control animal is simple, like humans dogs rely on routine, take them away from the environment that they are used to for fifty weeks of the year and they will react unpredictably.
After a short time most dogs will settle into the routine of the holiday but we must not forget they want to explore this new and wonderful place with different sights, sounds and smells.

So how do we prepare for taking our dog on holiday?

The chances are if your dog is going away with you then you are more than likely to be camping or staying in a caravan.

Let’s start at the beginning,

PACKING FOR YOUR DOG.
The basics are going to be the bed, basket and or blanket, food for the first day or two, bowls for food and water, poop scoops and plenty of bags, as with humans, the change in the water supply can often affect your pet’s toiletry habits added to the fact that your dog is going to spend a lot more time in public than they do at home. Toys and comforters to make them feel at home in a cramped tent or caravan that they are not used to, plus toys for the beach, balls and frisbies being the most common.
Take more balls than you need as they will inevitably get lost in the sand or washed out to sea!

A dog needs entertaining as much as a child so be prepared for plenty of exercise. An item few people think of taking for their dog is a basic first aid kit.

THE JOURNEY. If your dog is used to cars there should be little problem other than having less space than usual due to excess baggage and all those things that you take with you on holiday just in case. The safest way for a dog to travel is either in the luggage compartment of an estate car or 4 x 4 which may not be practical if full of luggage or the rear seat, in the case of the latter the dog should be strapped in, two types of dog harness are available from Oaktree Home and Garden shop, both recommended by the motoring authorities, they are simple to use, they fit your dog and then attach to a seat belt, allowing the dog some freedom of movement whilst at the same time acting as a normal seat belt in the event of sudden braking or accident. Many front seat passengers are killed or severely injured in traffic accidents by unrestrained dogs being hurled from the rear seat into the front.

If towing your own caravan, do not be tempted to put your dog in the caravan whilst on the move.

If you’re lucky enough to have a dog that is used to being in a car, bear in mind that it is only used to short trips, like shopping or to the park etc when going on a long journey that could take anything from four to six hours be prepared to stop regularly to allow your dog to have a drink, stretch its legs and have a wee. It is a sensible idea not to feed your dog before or during the journey. For dogs who are not good travellers your local vet can provide a mild sedative which is similar to that used for treating stress and anxiety during occasions like bonfire night.

ARRIVING AT THE DESTINATION.
After a long journey all occupants are going to be weary, especially if the weather has been hot and sticky and the inevitable traffic jams have halted your progress. The adults in the party just want to get out of the vehicle and breathe a huge sigh of relief at having arrived unscathed, so too do the children and dogs, thus car doors are thrown open allowing all to exit and head off in different directions, you manage to grab the kids but are not quick enough to catch the four legged tearaway who is already exploring his or her new environment and marking out his or her territory. Eventually you catch up with said four legged friend who has found their way to the site office and is registering him/herself by marking the ‘all dogs must be kept on a lead sign’.
Following the lecture from camp site owner on children and pets you are shown to your pitch.

Now where did you pack the lead attached to a corkscrew gadget that screws into the ground allowing your dog a small area of freedom whilst being kept securely within the confines of your camp? Once found and secured your pet should have a bowl of water and left to wonder at this beautiful new place you have arrived at whilst you set up tent or caravan.

Once your camp is set up, it might be a good idea to visit the site office and obtain the details of the nearest vet, telephone number, address and how to get there! just in case a visit is required or an emergency occurs. Unlike at home there are probably fewer veterinary practices and their hours of business are likely to be more restrictive than say in a town or city.

SHARING THE LIVING QUARTERS WITH YOUR PET
As at home it is best to start as you mean to go on, once you give your pet an inch they will take over the tent or caravan.
Designate an area where your dog will eat and sleep and stick to it. Most people attach an awning to their caravan or camper van which is the ideal place for your dog to eat and drink, similarly outside is just as adequate providing the weather is good.
When it comes to siting their bed think twice about placing it in the awning, although most awnings zip up around the base I can guarantee from experience that a clever dog will find a way out even if it means tearing a gaping hole in your expensive awning.
Don’t forget you will be asleep and totally unaware of what your dog is up to in the night.
A solution is to use the long lead on a screw thread, which is the only solution for those in tents other than letting the dog sleep in the car, if the latter is the only option make sure there is plenty of air and that it is not too hot, cars at night can still be warm as they are during the day, although obviously not as dangerously so as in hot sunlight.
In a caravan or camper van try and find room in the van for your dog’s bed. Somewhere out of the way where you are not going to trip over it should you get up in the night.
Some dogs will spend the entire night in their basket not moving until you awaken yourself in the morning, others like to move around during the course of the night which can be a problem or disturbance in the confines of a caravan.

THE HOLIDAY ITSELF:
Rule number one has to be never leave your dog in the car unattended, dogs die in hot cars, even with the windows down it does not take long for the car to heat up to unbearable temperatures for the animal to withstand. If you have to go shopping leave someone with the dog so they can stand outside the car with the dog or sit inside with the doors open and have a bowl of water on hand that the dog can get to.
We can strip off to shorts and swimsuit but a dog can’t remove its coat.
Long haired dogs obviously suffer more than short haired varieties, bear this in mind when visiting the beach, take a sunshade under which your dog can lie.

Dogs like digging! Sand is there to be dug, it’s worth watching where the spoils of the dig are landing, preferably away from neighbouring holidaymakers. Beware that nobody falls in the hole once dug, my Duke likes to dig large holes and lie in wait for someone to come along with an ice cream, not notice the hole, fall in and drop their ice leaving a tasty morsel for himself!

The sea is inviting, especially to a water loving dog.
If you have not seen your dog swim before do not assume that they can swim. Like us they have to learn to swim.
Most beaches are patrolled by life guards who mark out a safe bathing area using red and yellow flags, obviously if the marked area is full of bathers it is unfair to let your dog loose amongst them, besides which there is the danger of being hit by a surf board or body board.
Find an area just to the side of the marked out area where your dog can play in the sea without annoying other bathers.

Balls and sticks are the favourite items to send your dog chasing into the water to retrieve, another item is the buoyancy aid, a brightly coloured cork float that can have rope attached to which gives the added advantage of pulling your dog out of the water should they get into difficulties like being caught in a rip current.
When the life guards have a red flag flying it is dangerous for anyone to bathe, this includes your pet.

Rock pools are a fun place to see the sea creatures left behind from the ebbing tide.
There is a good chance your dog has not come across a crab or jelly fish before, rather like the first encounter with a hedgehog in the garden. Crabs will give the inquisitive dog a nasty nip and jelly fish will give a painful sting.

By virtue of their name rock pools are just that, pools of water within the rocks, dogs are pretty sure footed animals but can still slip on seaweed or twist their joints on uneven rocks lying below the surface of the water.
Similarly the cliff face is an inviting place to climb but having seen many dogs get stuck and in a few cases fall, I would not recommend rock climbing.

Cliff walks with dogs have recently been highlighted in the national press. The advice given is keep your dog on a lead when walking along cliff tops. Already this year several dogs have chased a rabbit or seagull and failed to stop at the edge of the cliff, sadly their owners have had one less passenger to take home with them.
Your dog is used to fields with hedges as boundaries and not unfenced cliffs with anything from a 20 foot to 200 foot drop the other side.

Beach holidays with your pet are fun and will remain in your memory for many years. With a little thought about the dangers that I have highlighted you can have a safe, fun filled holiday which all the family will enjoy.

Well Duke and I are off on our beach holiday next week so I hope David Cameron has left the place clean and tidy for us, as that is where we spend our holiday every year.

If your Dog is poorly, don’t give it Grapes!

Neil — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 09:42:41 +0000

Many dog owners are unaware of the possible dangers certain ‘human’ foodstuffs contain when they allow their dog to eat ‘tit bits’

Most pet owners realise that ‘human’ chocolate is poisonous to dogs and sensibly buy dog chocolate, but how many dogs ‘hoover’ up the crumbs left over after our meal times, especially when children have been at the dining table? Cakes and puddings containing raisins and sultanas can be potentially fatal to a dog, any grape product, which raisins and sultanas are, can cause damage to a dog’s kidneys and if left untreated can lead to death.

As with humans, most chemicals and poisons react in our pets as they do with us, however, the difference is that the majority of humans have the sense not to eat these poisons because we have been told not to and usually the reason why, this reasoning and instruction cannot be conferred upon our pets.
We can help our pets avoid coming into contact with certain substances simply by careful and sensible use, also by training the family dog not to go near certain areas, especially the garden, where hazards can be found. Common garden poisons are fairly obvious, pesticides, herbicides (weedkillers) and most commonly slug pellets. The bait free slug trap is an ideal product to use in your garden, it safely catches slugs whilst at the same time prevents access to the poison and the dead slugs which may be picked up not only by cats and dogs but more commonly by garden birds.
Few people realise that garden bulbs are another source of poison to dogs and cats. Daffodils and snowdrops are not dog friendly especially newly planted where a dog is going to be tempted to dig. Bulbs stored in sheds and greenhouses pose a threat, the best deterrent is simply to train the dog not to go into these places. Cats are particularly prone to poison by lilies.

There is a huge list of everyday items which are dangerous or potentially fatal to our pets, some of the most common are listed below.

Adder bites, Antifreeze, Aspirin,

Bee Stings, Berries (Holly, laburnum, yew), Bulbs,

Chocolate, (Dark Chocolate is particularly harmful), Creosote, Cigarettes and cigars (nicotine)

Detergents and disinfectants,

Flea Products if not used correctly, fumes in contained areas (engine, gas), Fungicides,

Glue, Garden Plants (too numerous to list but available on request) Grapes including raisins and sultanas

Herbicides, Houseplants (as with garden plants), Human Medicines,

Insecticides

Lead (from fishing weights, batteries, old toys painted with lead based paint,

Medicines (animal and human) Mouse Poison

Nicotine

Oil

Paracetemol, Paint, Paraffin, Petrol, Plants,

Rat Poison,

Slug Pellets, Snake Bites, (note also that frogs and toads eject a poison when confronted by an animal which can cause an unpleasant reaction to dogs and cats)

Tar, Toadstools and Mushrooms,

Wasp Stings.

This is a brief list to give some idea as to what to protect your pet from. If further information is required or you are concerned about a particular substance not listed please feel free to contact us or add to the list using the comment and reply box below.

Where are all the Summer Visitors?

Neil — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 22:38:12 +0000

If, like me, you spend a lot of time outdoors you will notice certain creatures without really thinking about them.

This year certain species are noticeable by their absence.

To date I have not seen a single ladybird, the usual colonies of ants that busy themselves in warm spots like the underside of the slabs in the greenhouse are nowhere to be found. One butterfly passed by never to be seen again, even slugs seem to have gone into hiding.

Frogs and toads are nowhere to be found and the same applies to bees.

What has happened? My field is usually abundant with all the above mentioned, is it just me? I am getting a complex about my lack of wildlife!

How to get a sound from a Shepherd’s Whistle

Neil — Sat, 10 May 2008 09:48:45 +0000

Before I started selling Shepherd’s Whistles I tried one myself and judging by the many questions I have received asking how to get a sound from the whistle, discovered they are not that easy to get a sound out of at first.

Do not despair! It took me about an hour to finally get a ‘tweet’ out of it, once you get the initial sound you will find it gets much easier. It is all to do with how you position it in your mouth. If you are familiar with wind instruments that can help.

Place the whole of the whistle in the mouth making sure that the straight edge of the whistle goes in first, with the plastic whistles there is a piece to hold on to which you would normally attach a piece of string to for hanging the whistle around your neck. This remains just outside the mouth. The nickel whistle does not have this piece but is otherwise identical.

Place your tongue over the top of the whistle so that the tongue covers the small hole in the centre of the whistle. It is your tongue that eventually controls the pitch, sound and strength of the noise coming from the whistle. You need to pucker your lips around the whistle and blow down from the top lip, this sounds complicated but when you have the whistle in your mouth you will find that there is only one way to blow.
You really have to keep blowing until you hear a sound, once you get a sound it is like riding a bike, you will just need to practice until you get the sounds you want. You will also find that once you get the hang of it there is not much effort involved in blowing, i.e you do not have to blow hard, which you will be doing whilst trying to get that first sound.

The different sounds are made by moving the tongue. In fact the whole secret to these whistles and getting the most out of them is to do with tongue movement. Although I said place the tongue over the top of the whistle, it is just as effective to place the tongue underneath the whistle.

If any experienced whistle blowers have any further comments please feel free to add them. There may be an easier way to use the whistle I have just explained how I learnt how to use mine.

National Welly Week: 21st - 27th April 2008

Neil — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 10:17:23 +0000

The charity, Garden Organic, Organisers of National Welly Week, are no doubt hoping for a wet week to help with their campaign! The serious reason for National Welly Week is to raise awareness of organic gardening.

It is hoped that individuals, families, friends, schools and business will join the campaign by organising fun events to help encourage people to move towards a healthy organic lifestyle. They actively encourage and inspire young people and schools to learn about the food they eat and how to start growing organically. This fun event not only promotes awareness but gives everyone the opportunity to get outside and be healthy.

It isn’t necessary to redesign your whole garden to become organic, simple steps like growing plants to attract beneficial insects to your garden may be a first step. Marigolds,Tagetes erecta, attract aphids which in turn attract the beneficial ladybird to your garden, controlling pests in a natural way. Oaktree Home and Garden stock ladybird towers which will attract the ladybirds, and delight the children.
Other products available from Oaktree Home and Garden include a Butterfly Home and Bumble Bee Nesting Box, both items invaluable for attracting beneficial insects into the garden.

Seed versus Plugs

Neil — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:24:57 +0000

One of the most satisfying aspects of gardening is growing your own plants, the question is do you grow from seed or buy already grown plug plants?

Most satisfying has to be sowing your own seed, the anticipation of that first crack in the compost as the new born seedling emerges is a wonderful feeling, but then the hard work starts, giving the fragile seedling the correct light, heat and moisture so as not to end up with a leggy seedling whose stem is so lanky it cannot support the foliage and the rest of the plant as it grows.

Professional seed sowers use chemicals to inhibit growth and obtain a more bushy and compact plant, which is why they always look better in the Garden Centres than the ones you have grown yourself!

For those wishing to grow their plants and vegetables from seed I have compiled a selection of varieties, including old favourites and new varieties. These can be found in the seed category of the Oaktree Home and Garden shop.

Moving onto plug plants as an alternative to seed, the advantages are fairly obvious.
An instant plant ready to pot on with little maintenance. Watering and temperature control are still important as the plug plant will still bolt given the wrong conditions.
A mature plant will be achieved much sooner than the seed sown ones.
Plug Plants are usually propagated from cuttings with the exception of certain summer bedding plants like lobelia and Impatiens (Buzzy Lizzies).

Although I have not yet listed plug plants for this year, I will be doing so at the beginning of March. Varieties available will include, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Surfinias, Million Bells, Tuberous Begonias and many more. Bookmark this site and return in March to see a complete list of what is on offer. Plugs will be sold in quantities of six and ten plants and packed in special blister packs for safe dispatch.

Great Crested Newt (Triturus cristatus)

Neil — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 09:26:35 +0000

There are many sites dedicated to this subject containing much scientific and legal information. Here we are simply outlining the basic facts for people to use as a source of information or reference.

The great crested newt is the largest British newt and the most threatened of its species. It is believed to be declining at a rate of 2% per year.

These newts are approximately 17cm long including body and tail. They look almost black to the naked eye, but in fact they have grey / brown colouration covered in dark spots with a wart like skin. Their undersides are more of a yellowy orange colour with black blotches. The male is easily distinguished from the female by the jagged crest which runs down
its back with a silvery blue stripe running to the end of its tail.
This little amphibian has a life span of 27 years.

The great crested newt is nocturnal thus seldom seen during the day. It is found in mainland Britain but not found in Ireland. They are widespread in south east and north west England but much rarer in Scotland, Wales and south west England.

The newt lives predominantly on land but seeks bodies of water for breeding. Its natural habitat are medium to large weedy ponds, ditches and marsh gardens situated close to scrub, hedgerows, pasture and arable land. Ideal conditions would find log piles and rocks close by. During the day the newt will be in hiding under logs, stones or vegetation.

A voracious eater, it feeds on tadpoles, froglets, worms, insect larvae and water snails while in ponds. On land it will happily munch on worms, insects and other small invertebrates.

The newt hibernates from October to February, usually on land in a damp, frost free place returning annually to their breeding ground when the water temperature has risen to allow breeding. The breeding season lasts from May to June,
during that time they will spend the day in deep water and breed during the night in shallower water laying between 30 and 500 eggs.

The decline in the numbers of this newt is due to a combination of factors, destruction of its natural habitat, pollution, a decline in the breeding ponds and insensitive management.

Conservation awareness:

It is a protected species under schedule 5 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, which covers England, Wales and Scotland and the Habitat Regulations Act of 1994. It is also a European Protected Species and as such it has additional protection in the UK.

If you wish to encourage newts into a wildlife area it is essential that ponds are free from fish as fish will prey on the eggs. Herons will also catch the newts.

It is an offence to:

• Intentionally kill, injure or take a great crested newt.

• Possess or control any live or dead specimen or anything derived from a great crested newt.

• Intentionally or recklessly damage, destroy or obstruct access to any structure or place used for shelter or protection by a great crested newt (in practice this means both its breeding sites, and its terrestrial habitat).

• Intentionally or recklessly disturb a great crested newt while it is occupying a structure or place which it uses for that purpose.

Prior to developing land on which it is thought that the great crested newt may reside, a survey must be done English Nature and DEFRA have to be informed. Ponds have to be surveyed along with adjacent ponds as far away as 500m from the original pond.
Land within 100m radius from the ponds are also checked.

Bottle traps using 2ltr bottles are set overnight around the pond, the traps must be spaced approximately two meters apart. Bottle Traps are thought to be the most reliable traps to use. When set during the summer months the night air temperature must be +5degrees centigrade and checked first thing in the morning before temperatures rise too high.

Newts have cost developers and Councils vast sums of money in relocations and fines for not abiding by the legislation.

Read a selection of cases via this link:

Great Crested Newt: The bane of the modern developer!

Neil — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 08:46:59 +0000

Listed below are just a few extracts from news items over the past four years, indicating just how costly the Great Crested Newt can be!

A new road in Leicestershire will cost an extra £1.7 million because of a great-crested newt colony which may be home to just one creature.
Angry council bosses have vowed to fight a requirement to safeguard the site after a study found it housed a maximum of just 10 newts.
Leicestershire County Council leader David Parsons said: “It is completely unacceptable.”
The Earl Shilton bypass will include £500,000 of newt-proof fences when it opens months later than originally planned.
(extract from mirror.co.uk)

A Preston politician has called for a species of newt to be taken off the protected list.
Great crested newts have become the scourge of any developer looking to build anything after establishing its last stronghold in the Red Rose county.
Experts planning a massive new business park, creating more than 1,000 jobs on the Preston East Employment Area near the M6, are the latest people to discover Triturus cristatus – as they are known in Latin – on their land.
In recent months, a scheme to build a new depot for Spar firm James Hall and Sons, and for a United Utilities electricity sub-station on the same site, have run into similar small and slimey problems.
Now, Preston’s deputy mayor, Coun Bill Tyson, has called for the newts to be taken off the protected species list. Their protected status means that every development site on which they are found is beset by delays as experts search every ditch and pond for them and then rehome any they discover.
Coun Tyson said: “We have got that many newts in this county now I do not know where we put them all.
“I think it is time we took them off this protected species list, they seem to be everywhere.”
However, the body appointed to protect the newts disagrees.
Heather McMorland, of Natural England, said: “The newts are a blessing or a curse, it depends which you look at it, but the bottom line is we have a duty to the future of Europe to protect these beautiful little creatures in the last place they exist.
“In other parts of the world they have been killed off by the destruction of their habitat and we have to stop that happening here – even if it does keep the bulldozers away for a bit.” (extract from Lancashire Evening Post)

Great crested newts could scupper plans to mine more than half a million tonnes of coal from a site in the North-East.
The discovery of a colony of the tiny animals – which are a protected species – in a pond on the site where opencast mining is proposed, near Consett, County Durham, has delighted campaigners opposed to the plans.
Derwentside councillors will be recommended by their planning officer to reject the application when they next meet.
Although the district does not have the final say and can only express its views – Durham County councillors are due to decide on UK Coal’s application in April – the planning officer’s recommendation of refusal was described as “extremely good news” by locals who fear disturbance, dust and noise.
UK Coal has submitted the planning application to Durham County Council to take 556,000 tonnes from 68 hectares of land off the A692 beneath the Pontop Pike TV mast, between the villages of Dipton and Leadgate. More than 3,000 locals signed a petition opposing the development.
UK Coal says the proposal would create 38 jobs, produce 556,000 tonnes of coal needed for the British steel or electricity industry, and provide a new conservation area after mining is completed within three years. But a council spokesperson said in a report to be considered by Derwentside’s development control committee: “There is likely to be significant impact upon the Brooms Pond and Great Crested Newt species.
“In addition to great crested newts, other species have been identified both on site and in the local area that could be affected during the operations. These include bats, badgers and birds.
“The loss of the Brooms Pond and harm to the Great Crested Newt population cannot be offset by the creation of new habitats taking into account the difficulty with translocation.”
The report was welcomed by members of residents’ group The Pont Valley Network, which is opposed to the application. A representative said: “The great crested newts are a show-stopper, and a recent survey found 47 in the pond. We believe the site is also home to badgers and bats, while somebody spotted a rare butterfly species,The Dingy Skipper.”
A Durham and Derwentside councillor said: “This area has been ravaged by industry in the past and should now be allowed to recover.” But a spokesman for UK Coal, said: “Great crested newts are not an impediment. They are a protected species, but we can and we will create safe new habitats for them.” (extract by Neil Mckay, The Journal)

“Fifteen great crested newts added £315,000to the cost of a road-widening project in North Wales and five slow worms caused a six-month delay on a house-building project after Natural England - the agency that advises the Government on nature conservation - stepped in to stop work at the site.” (extract from telegraph co.uk 2007)

Newts may block building of executive homes:
Residents living near the breeding ponds of great crested newts hope to halt the building of 26 executive homes near their habitat.
The newts are a protected species and have been seen in Ffordd Pen y Maes in Trefnant near Denbigh.
Local people say they are anxious their natural habitat is not disturbed, and if building firm Anwyl is given planning permission they will ask the Welsh Assembly Government to intervene. (extract BBC News 2004)

Four great crested newts were found during a survey of the proposed building site at Fallibroome High School in Macclesfield.
The tracking, trapping and relocation of the newts cost the council £60,000.
Great crested newts are a protected species under European law and planning applications infringing their habitats are routinely turned down unless it can be shown that measures have been taken to safeguard their numbers.
Cheshire councillor Barrie Hardern has written to Environment Secretary Hilary Benn complaining about the excessive use of public money in this particular case.”Around £15,000 per newt seems a ludicrous sum of money to me,” said Cllr Harden. (2008)

Landfill site bosses fear they may have to make 30 workers redundant if a row over a colony of great crested newts is not resolved.
Wastego, which operates the Thornhaugh Quarry and Landfill site, near Peterborough, has been told that strict planning conditions concerning the welfare of newts – which are protected by law – have not been met.
Peterborough City Council and English Nature have expressed concern that the site is being used for landfilling before newts, that are known to occupy it, have been moved to safety.
Wastego has been warned that if newts are being put at risk an injunction, banning all work at the site, could be issued.Cliff Thurlow, technical director for Wastego, said: “If work at the site is halted, 30 workers would immediately have to be laid off.
“It would be terrible news for the company and we feel it would be unfair because we have been trying hard to address the issues raised by the local authority.
“The planning conditions were made long before Wastego occupied the site and as such we have struggled to meet the requirements within the specified time.”
Peterborough City Council and English Nature want all newts inhabiting the site to be relocated to a specially designated and fenced off area.
Mr Thurlow said the safe area has already been prepared and that Wastego staff have applied for a licence granting them permission to move the newts.
Wastego also claim that if an injunction was served, up to £250,000 of money accumulated each year through the Landfill Tax Credit would be lost.
The Government scheme allows landfill site operators to donate up to 6.5 per cent of their tax liability to environmental projects and the firm says the Thornhaugh area will benefit from funds if it is allowed to continue operating.
Jennie Kendall, a spokesman for Peterborough City Council, said that legal discussions have been taking place in an effort to keep the site operational.
She said: “The planning permission agreed was subject to a number of conditions.
“One of those conditions referred to the protection of great crested newts on the site.”
She added: “Legal discussions have been taking place to bring the development back into line with planning conditions that apply to the site.” (extract from peterboroughtoday.co.uk 2004)

And Finally for now:

A builder was fined £8,400 for damaging the habitat of great crested newts in 2007